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Destination:
ALEXANDRIA, Egypt
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Discovering a Lost
World
Diving into submerged cities
along Egypt's Mediterranean coast
ALEXANDRIA, Egypt -- Dropping
overboard into the milky sea, negotiating the first six metres was
like swimming blindfolded. But, near the sea floor, it was as if a
fog cleared. The eerie, dark shapes of giant slabs and scattered
rocks became clear.
A pre-dive briefing had prepared
divers for what they were about to see. Long, cylindrical blocks
took the shape of 2,000-year-old columns, said to have been among
the hundreds that once surrounded the still-standing Pompeii's
Pillar in the Kom-as-Shouqafa area of modern Alexandria.
The columns -- believed to have been dumped into the
sea to hamper a Crusader invasion fleet -- now litter a patch of the
ancient Egyptian city's Mediterranean coastline. The 50-kilometre
stretch of beaches and bays is the resting place of numerous sunken
pharaonic, Greek and Roman cities.
Diving instructor
Ashraf Sabry, a native of Egypt's Mediterranean port of Alexandria,
began offering tourists a glimpse of this lost world early this
year. His company is so far the only one to capitalize on the area's
underwater tourism potential.
"Divers come from around
the world to dive on Egypt's Red Sea and Sinai Peninsula coasts,"
Sabry says. "Its aquatic life is as wonderful as the Caribbean and
Australia's Great Barrier Reef. I think that Alexandria's sunken
cities and ancient history offer divers something different."
Just out to sea, past the entrance to Alexandria's
eastern harbour, lies the obelisk of the 19th-dynasty Egyptian
pharaoh Seti I, who ruled about 1300 BC, and a number of one-tonne
sphinxes -- with and without heads.
 Cleopatra's Empire, archeological
pieces located underwater in Alexandria. -- Photo credit:
Alexandria Dive Co.
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More significantly,
the same site is where researchers say one of the ancient world's
seven wonders -- the 120-metre fire-powered Lighthouse of Alexandria
-- may have once stood.
Mohamed el-Sayed, an
underwater archeologist with Egypt's Supreme Council of Antiquities,
says researchers believe a 14th-century earthquake levelled the
lighthouse. Its ruins could be among piles of scattered debris found
about eight metres below sea level.
El-Sayed, who went
along on one of Sabry's recent dives, briefed tourists on what they
would see. Such expert guides aren't always on hand, but Sabry gives
written background notes.
"Many people believe they
will find a fully intact city once they get to the bottom, with
streets and upright buildings," el-Sayed says. "What you do see is a
huge field of giant, broken slabs, columns and scattered parts of an
obelisk and various other smaller pieces."
Alexandria,
about two hours north of Cairo and founded in 331 BC by Alexander
the Great, continues to be a source of intrigue and ancient wonder.
In June, underwater archeologists unveiled pharaonic
statues, stone tablets and other treasures. These belonged to the
2,500-year-old city of Herakleion, the ancient sunken port named
after Hercules, located to the west of modern downtown Alexandria
and about six kilometres off shore within Abu Qir Bay.
A violent earthquake
about 1,200 years ago was said to have sent Herakleion to the bottom
of the bay. Over the centuries, numerous quakes rocked Alexandria's
fragile coastline, wiping out entire ancient communities.
The stories of lost cities like Herakleion, Canopus
and Menouthis survived only through myth, ancient Greek travelogues
and the tales of fisherman passed down over the years.
In recent times, modern technology, such as global
positioning systems, and the big budgets of various foundations have
shed more light on the mysteries.
Various pieces
started to be raised from the sea during the early 1900s and placed
in on-land locations like the Roman Theatre, next to Alexandria's
main train terminal, Masr station.
In more recent
times, international archeological teams have started to base
themselves in Alexandria, increasing the speed and volume of
discoveries.
Sabry -- an archeology buff -- started
his Alexandria Dive Co. in May, turning a piece of the city's
European-like corniche into a miniature Dahab, the Sinai coast haven
for backpackers and divers. Large wicker umbrellas, soft, yellow
sand and a cafe give Sabry's dive centre an island feel.
His boat takes divers
to a number of sites off Alexandria, though not near Herakleion
where researchers are at work. Within the archeologically rich
eastern harbour are found the Royal Quarter and the fabled temples
of Cleopatra and Alexander's general, Ptolemy.
Non-pharaonic sites, such as a sunken battleship and
German fighter plane from the Second World War, are also on Sabry's
dive itinerary.
Beaming after a dive with Sabry,
schoolteacher Thomas Stief, from Munich, Germany, says he would
change his career tomorrow if he could work as an archeological
diver in Alexandria.
"The city of Alexandria is so
special because of its history," Stief says. "And now through being
able to dive here, we can realize the ancient history for
ourselves."
The Alexandria Dive Co. offers a two-dive package for about
$130 Cdn if you have your own equipment, or about $175 Cdn if you
need to rent diving gear. The price includes two dives, a boat trip
and lunch on board. On the Web: http://www.alexandra-dive.com/
GETTING THERE: Various airlines fly to Cairo.
From there, a two- to three-hour train or bus trip or short EgyptAir
flight can connect you to Alexandria. Most visitors to Egypt need a
passport and visa for entry. Citizens of many Western countries can
purchase visas upon arrival; a 30-day visa can be bought for under
$25 Cdn at most entry ports into Egypt, including Cairo
International Airport.
CLIMATE: Prevailing
north winds from the Mediterranean cool Alexandria. Summers are
relatively temperate, although humidity can rise in July and in the
hottest month, August, when average temperatures reach 30 C. Winters
are cool and marked by violent storms.
CURRENCY: The Egyptian pound. Traveller's
cheques and credit cards are also accepted in many places.
LODGING: Sofitel Hotel Cecil, 16 Saad Zaghloul
Sq. One of Alexandria's most famous hotels, this 1929 Old World gem
is located on the city's corniche. It offers a panoramic view of the
Eastern Harbour and is also near many restaurants, coffee shops and
bars. Its 86 rooms range in price from about $165 to $285 Cdn,
including taxes and breakfast. Phone: (20-3)-48-77-173. Fax:
(20-3)-48-40-368. On the Web: http://www.sofitel.com/.
Paradise
Inn Metropole Hotel, 52 Saad Zaghloul St., El Raml Train Station.
Near the Cecil and located in the heart of Alexandria's business and
consulate district. Designed and built in 1902 by Italian and Greek
architects. Depending on the season, room rates range from about $95
to $360 Cdn. Phone: (20-3) 486-1465, (20-3) 486-1466, (20-3)
486-1467. Fax: (20-3) 486-2040.
Helnan Palestine,
Montaza palace gardens. Egypt's late King Farouk used the palace's
vast private gardens as his summer getaway. The still-standing
palace is now used by President Hosni Mubarak.
A short
walk through the gardens is the Helnan Palestine, a popular and
pricey hotel with a private beach. Its 210 rooms range in price from
about $200 to $450 Cdn. High season is June to October. Phone:
(20-3) 547-3500, (20-3) 547-4033. Fax: (20-3) 547-3378.
www.summer
holiday.info
www.winter holiday.us
West Harbour 2 -- Photo credit:
Quaitbay -- Photo credit: 
Quaitbay Fort -- Photo credit: