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Destination:BANDERAS BAY, Puerto
Vallarta
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Mayan
escapes
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 The
house Elizabeth Taylor bought in Puerto Vallarta.
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BANDERAS BAY, Puerto Vallarta -- At first, the giant Humpback
appeared to be playing to the crowd of whale-watchers onboard
a 30-foot catamaran about a kilometre or two from shore.
But our guide, Carlos, told us the rolling, floundering
motions of the huge creature indicated something other than
playing around was happening. His guess: that this was a
distressed pregnant female trying to deliver her calf. And
her almost drunk-like bobbing and weaving in the water meant
that the birth was going to happen soon.
With that in mind, Carlos quickly steered the boat away,
so the group of gawkers wouldn't interfere with the process.
Carlos is keenly aware of man's impact on the natural environment
of whales -- a tour guide for Vallarta Adventure by day
but a veterinarian by training, he didn't want the tourists
to be a distraction to the huge mammal's difficult plight.
So we left the area to allow the Humpback to continue her
birthing process in peace. It had already been quite a productive
morning anyway -- we saw maybe 20 whales in the four hours
we had been on the water.
Banderas Bay is whale-watching paradise. From December to
early April, Humpbacks that spend the summer off the coast
of British Columbia and Alaska migrate to the warmer water
of Mexico, Hawaii and south of Japan to breed, calve and
nurse their young. In Mexico, many congregate off the southern
tip of Baja California, but a good number travel further
south to the popular tourist destination of Puerta Vallarta.
After half a day of witnessing these magnificent animals
in their natural environment, we headed to shore to participate
in a man-made -- and sometimes controversial -- adventure:
swimming with dolphins.
While some in our group opted not to take part because they
found it wrong to play with dolphins held in captivity,
others swallowed whatever discomfort they felt for the chance
to mingle with one of earth's most fascinating species.
Dolphins are warm, friendly and genuinely affectionate.
And in this case, it was clear the animals were well-treated.
Each of the swimmers first had to watch a video on dolphin
behaviour, and we were told that while petting them was
encouraged, we were to remove jewelry and anything else
that might scratch their skin, and not touch anywhere near
their eyes or blow-hole. Four swimmers were limited to a
pair of dolphins, and the swim was kept to about 20 minutes.
* * *
Puerto Vallarta is a city of 350,000 about halfway down
the Pacific coast of Mexico. With a January to April average
high of 30C, it is a welcome respite to the Canadian winter
and attracts more than 3 million vistors a year. This year,
the city plays host to the 2002 World Golf Championships
at the Vista Vallarta Golf Club, to be held Dec. 10 to 15.
A continuing claim to fame is it was the setting for John
Huston's version of Tennessee Williams' Night Of The Iguana
in 1964, starring Richard Burton. Elizabeth Taylor's appearance
and affair with Burton was a scandal that resulted in headlines
around the world, and Puerto Vallarta gained instant fame.
Taylor bought a house in the historic centre of town. Across
the narrow cobblestone street is the studio of watercolour
painter Richard Baker, and a few blocks away is the home
and studio of sculptor Ramiz Barquet.
Barquet's bronze Nostalgia sculpture is one of many landmark
works that adorn Puerto Vallarta's expansive boardwalk (or
Malecon), and during a walking tour organized by Galeria
Pacifico owner Gary Thompson, Barquet blushes as he tells
the story of how it was created.
After finding the woman he loved and then losing track of
her for 27 years, through a twist of fate they met in Puerta
Vallarta 29 years ago. Strolling by the sea, they stopped
at a spot where Barquet asked her to marry him. He vowed
to create a tribute to their love -- Nostalgia, a twice-lifesize
bronze of two figures sitting peacefully together.
Galeria Pacifico conducts tours through the old part of
town every Tuesday at 10 a.m., which includes visits to
the studios of both Baker and Barquet. Donations of $10
US support installations of more public sculpture in Puerto
Vallarta.
 PACHITA
stands behind the counter of her cluttered shop in
San Sebastian; |
* * *
About 50 kms east of Puerto Vallarta, high in the rugged
tropical Sierra Madre mountains, San Sebastian is a town
that time forgot. A world heritage site preserved much as
it was 200 years ago, the village of 350 residents welcomes
day-trippers and overnight vistors.
Our guide on this trip is Jose Hojo, a garrulous bundle
of energy who, at about age 30 has made it his personal
project to buy up San Sebastian artifacts recent owners
considered "junk." His quest is to keep them in a museum
in the town.
Meanwhile, Jose escorts visitors daily to the village, where
they can buy coffee from a plantation that produces 30 tons
a year cultivated and brewed in the same manner it was centuries
ago, and stop by shops run by local eccentrics like Francisca
Perez, known throughout town as Pachita.
Pachita, 77, is a legend in the village, and standing behind
the counter of her tiny, cluttered shop she loves to tell
stories, answer questions and recite poetry.
The people of San Sebastian are self-sufficient for the
most part -- growing their own vegetables, raising chickens,
pigs and cattle -- although Pachita and others make a meagre
income by selling items to tourists. For instance, Pachita
has typed copies of her poems available for a small "donation"
and she uses the money she raises to pay Jose for essentials
he brings her back from his trips to Puerto Vallarta.
Jose also acts as an air-ambulance service should anyone
need to go to hospital.
* * *
Puerta Vallarta has the best the modern world can offer
as well. We visited the Terra Noble Art & Healing Center,
owned and operated by the effusive Jorge Rubio. On a mountainside
overlooking downtown, Rubio has created a magical setting
where visitors can sign up for clay sculpture and painting
workshops, participate in sweat-lodge ceremonies and receive
massages and body treatments.
Although he wouldn't name names, Rubio says the spa is a
popular retreat for stars, and he has hosted several celebrity
weddings.
* * *
From our base at the Marriott Casa Magna hotel, we wound
up our trip with a cruise and dinner-show called Rhythms
Of The Night. Departing just before sunset, the hour-long
boat ride deposits guests at Las Caletas, the former jungle
hideaway of film director Huston. A pre-Hispanic show of
dance and music is followed by a candlelight dinner beside
a moonlit ocean.
BOTTOM LINE
GETTING THERE: Mexicana flies to Mexico City, for
transfer to Puerto Vallarta. The Vallarta Adventure office
is located in the Marina Vallarta, near the Marriott Casa
Magna, which arranges transportation to Nuevo Vallarta for
whale-watching and dolphin swim, San Sebastian and Rhythms
Of The Night. Galeria Pacifico is at 174 Aldama St. in central
Puerto Vallarta. Terra Noble is at 595 Tulipanes, Lomas
de Terra Noble.
MORE INFORMATION: Vallarta Adventure: www.vallarta-adventures.com.
Vista Vallarta Golf Club: www.foremexico.com. Galeria Pacifico:
www.ArtMexico.com. Terra Noble spa: www.terranoble.com.
Marriott Casa Magna: www.marriotthotels.com/pvrmx. For travel
information for all Mexico destinations, call the Mexico
Tourism Board at 1-800-44-MEXICO or visit www.visitmexico.com
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